Pepe in Grani
It’s pizza time again! This one will click for all of you Netflix Chef’s Table folks. Pepe in Grani is the current darling of all pizzaphiles across the globe. Often cited as the ‘best pizza in the world’, Franco Pepe has won all the awards and is currently the subject of a stunning episode of my favorite series Chef’s Table.
It’s located about an hour outside of Naples. I would have gone when I visited Naples last week, but my Italian friends weren’t interested, suggesting that if it wasn’t IN Napoli, it couldn’t possibly be the best pizza in the world (che stronzi - they have since recanted since watching the show). So, I gathered a few foodie compadres and drove three hours through Roman traffic and a downpour to make this coveted (and nearly impossible) reservation.
So, Adam, get to the point… how was it? Neapolitan Pizza isn’t my jam. I get it. I appreciate it. I understand the technique and culinary sensibility of it, but it’s just not my favorite style of pizza. That said, Pepe does stuff that will knock your socks off. First, the dough is insane - 10/10 and the perfect base for everything he does. He makes every batch by hand and it’s all about the feel. I’ve been in this realm before. Una Pizza Napoletana has it, Del Popolo has it, some of the Napoli joins have it - but this guy is clearly the master.
Where the dough really shined was in some of the innovative fried versions. My favorite bites were light and airy in the crispy pizzas, cones and desserts he creates by frying the dough. The pizzas were all solid, from his innovative margherita sbagliata (mistaken) to a unique tuna, onion cream, and celery treat.
But what really stood out to me was how, despite the incoming assault of food travelers that may soon overwhelm this spot, it felt like a local Neapolitan joint. Kids were running around, there were more Italian people than us, Franco worked the room. To me, I pray they can maintain this (perhaps they keep many tables available for locals-only reservations?) as it just adds to the vibe.
As for the pizza, it’s up there with the best Neapolitan I’ve had, but I’m thankful I’ve got a few more days in Rome to have a tonda or two or three.