Lucali & DeLucia’s
Ok, here we go again. Last time we checked in on pizza, it was New Haven style and my opinion was that they were all outstanding, but Modern Apizza was best in class over Frank Pepe's and Sallys. Today we're talking about two top dogs that play in the same stratosphere but come with very different approaches: New Jersey's DeLucia's Brick Oven Pizza and Brooklyn's Lucali's.
Both of these joints are coveted institutions and rank high on most lists of the best pizza in the US. To me, both are outstanding, but for very different reasons. In fact, there couldn't be a greater contrast in styles to illustrate why pizza is such a subtle, yet complex study. In both places I tried plain cheese and a pepperoni (at Lucali we added jalapeños to the pep, which was a good move).
DeLucia's Brick Oven Pizza
DeLucia's was established in 1917 and is a Jersey, old-school, atmospheric experience. The pie is super thin with a crispy cracker, stiff-as-a-board, well-done crust. The dense dough, allows it to be so rigid. The ovens must operate at a slightly lower temp though, because the pizza isn't charred. The sauce and cheese balance are pretty on point, though one could argue the sauce might be a little dry. Still, overall flavor, texture, and vibe are killer - making this worth the drive.
What can I say about Lucali that you haven't already heard? The superlatives are valid this is world class pizza. Unlike DeLucia, Lucali is new-school by way of an old-school Brooklyn native. It's a neighborhood joint that has gotten so much attention that it's almost impossible to get into. The crust is the star... again, cracker thin but not dense. In fact, it has air holes to lighten it and char to flavor it - damn near perfect. The sauce is a perfect balance between the sweet NY slice and the stoic Neapolitan. The cheese hits on flavor, texture, grease (or lack thereof). As with most places where people rave so much, I'm skeptical, but Lucali delivered.
Lucali
If you're a pizza fanatic, add these to your list. Pro-tip, you can pay Same Ole Line Dudes, LLC to wait for you at Lucali to save your afternoon. I'd put DeLucia in my top 50 pizzas whereas Lucali is sitting in the Top 5 along with my Roman and New Haven favorites.