ROME, ITALY

A few notes about how to enjoy Rome (and Italy, in general)…

Dining: Lunch is typically a bigger meal than dinner. It starts around 12:30pm and often goes until 2pm+. Reservations are always recommended. Because lunch often overlaps with touring, some people won’t dedicate the time. I suggest trying it at least once. Of course you can still eat at the best restaurants in the evening. Just, please, for the love all things holy, don’t go before 8pm (9-10 is when the Italians like to start). The good pizzerias are only open at night, whereas snacking pizza (square, by weight) will only be available during the day.

Below you will find my map of Rome. If you click on the icon next to my photo it will reveal a legend. Most items have descriptions in the legend when you click on them. Items in green are must-sees / eats. Use the icon to the top right to expand to the full map. Updated Feb 2024.

Aperitivi (Happy Hour): A big part of the dining experience (and perhaps why they start dinner so late) is the aperitvo hour. Typically Italians will enjoy a passiagiata (evening stroll on the main shopping streets) from 4-6pm or so. Then it’s time to settle down for a cocktail and some bites. I’ve listed my favorite places and strongly suggest you live like a local for a spell. It’s perfectly natural to spill directly from aperitvi to dinner.

Sites: Don’t do too much in one day. In fact, it takes many days to see everything in Rome. If you only have a few days, see the main sites but don’t pack in too much. I typically recommend the following itinerary depending on the number of days you have:

Day 1 - Colosseum & Forum tour (could be morning or evening). Definitely have a guide and definitely get the underground. Walking tour around Imperial Forums, Capitoline Museum, Jewish Ghetto, Campo Dei Fiori, Pantheon.
Day 2 - Vatican Museum & St. Peters tour. Definitely hire a guide. Walking tour of Castel St. Angelo, Piazza Del Popolo, Piazza Navona, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain. There are a lot of little churches and other sites to explore on the walking tour. Don’t miss the little details.
Day 3 - Domus Aurea & Trajan’s Market. Again, these should be with tours (Trajan’s market can be just with audio guide). Take a food tour at the Testaccio marketwith Katie Parla. Explore Trastevere.
Day 4 - Bike tour on the via Appia Antica. Visit Catacombs, Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla.

If you have more time, split this up even further. You can walk for days and days in Rome and barely touch the surface of the vast amounts of cool stuff to see. If you’re into ancient history, go deeper there. Foodie? So, so many things to see and do. Take a cooking class or two. There are also great parks that you can take long walks like the Villa Borghese (with a great museum) and the Villa Doria Pamphili.